Takeda Shingen and the Secret Origins of Lake Kawaguchi

Lake Kawaguchi, located in central Honshu, Japan, is the northernmost of the Fuji Five Lakes. Nestled in the northeastern part of the former Kai Province (present-day Yamanashi Prefecture), it lies approximately 30 kilometers from Kofu. As a natural lake at the foot of Mt. Fuji, Lake Kawaguchi is renowned for its crystal-clear waters and stunning reflections of the sacred mountain. The surrounding areas, including Oishi Park and Fujimidai, offer picturesque scenery. Kai Province, landlocked and surrounded by mountains, bordered Sagami Province (now Kanagawa) to the east, Shinano (now Nagano) to the west, Suruga (now Shizuoka) to the south, and Echigo (now Niigata) to the north. Though the land was barren and lacked a coastline, its strategic importance stemmed from Mt. Fuji and its gold resources. The eastern region of Kai—where Lake Kawaguchi sits—served both as a natural defense and as a key passage to the Kanto and Shinano regions.

Amid this backdrop was born Takeda Shingen (December 1, 1521 – May 13, 1573), originally named Takeda Harunobu, at Tsutsujigasaki Residence in Kofu (now Takeda Shrine). As the eldest son of Takeda Nobutora, he witnessed his father’s tyrannical rule from a young age. According to the Kōyō Gunkan and local legends, Nobutora was notoriously cruel—allegedly ordering pregnant women cut open to see the fetus’ gender, and burying disobedient vassals alive—leading to widespread resentment and disloyalty among retainers. In 1541, with support from his mother Lady Ōi and loyal retainer Itagaki Nobukata, the 20-year-old Harunobu staged a coup, exiling Nobutora to Suruga and ending his reign of terror. He then assumed the Takeda leadership and earned the moniker “Tiger of Kai.”

Shingen took great interest in the Lake Kawaguchi region. It’s said that he trained troops in the forested areas around Oishi Park, conducted signal tests with torches atop Fujimidai (near modern-day Narusawa Village), and gazed upon Mt. Fuji from the Kawaguchiko Ohashi Bridge, vowing to make the lake and mountains his strategic stronghold. He once declared: “This mountain reflects my will—immovable and steadfast. This lake mirrors my heart—deep and full of hidden plans.” Shingen developed flood controls along the Fuji River, expanded gold mining operations, and fathered 14 sons. His eldest son, Yoshinobu, was later placed under house arrest, and his second son, Katsuyori, succeeded him. A lover of poetry and the tea ceremony, Shingen once wrote:

“Fifty years of human life—like a dream, like an illusion.”

Under the banner of “Fūrinkazan” (Wind, Forest, Fire, Mountain), Shingen transformed Kai into a formidable warlord state. His most famous campaigns were the Five Battles of Kawanakajima against Uesugi Kenshin, especially the fourth battle in 1561. That August, Shingen prepared supply lines from the Lake Kawaguchi region: hiding provisions with ninja operatives in Oishi Park, setting up lookouts at Fujimidai, and constructing bamboo rafts near Kawaguchiko Ohashi. On September 10, the battle erupted in Kawanakajima, Shinano (now Nagano City). Shingen, with around 20,000 troops, laid a “Woodpecker Strategy,” pretending to retreat to draw Uesugi forces in. According to lore, his wife Lady Sanjo (or possibly a concubine) advised using the morning fog to hide an ambush, which he heeded. As the mist covered the land, Takeda forces hid to the west while Kenshin, with 18,000 troops, crossed the Sai River believing the enemy had fled and charged the center.

Shingen personally led a cavalry attack from the flank, as drums thundered and the battlefield turned crimson. According to the Kōyō Gunkan, Kenshin himself broke into Shingen’s main camp, slashing at Shingen with a sword. The blade grazed Shingen’s armor, but he parried with his gunbai (war fan), escaping with only a minor injury. Takeda retainer Obu Toramasa led a counterattack that forced Kenshin to withdraw. Shingen’s son Yoshinobu led the vanguard, but disagreements over tactics with his father sowed discord that later led to his confinement. Though the battle had no clear victor—Takeda forces lost around 4,000 men and Uesugi even more—Shingen held his northern border. After the battle, Shingen passed through Lake Kawaguchi again. At Kawaguchiko Ohashi, he reflected on the cost of war, ordered repairs to roads along the lake, and commissioned maps of the battlefield for posterity.

Later, he advanced into the Kanto region and defeated the Hojo clan. In 1572, he launched a westward campaign against Oda Nobunaga and Tokugawa Ieyasu. In 1573, while in Shinano, he fell ill and died at age 53. He ordered that his death be kept secret for three years. His successor Katsuyori could not hold back enemies, and the Takeda clan was extinguished in 1582.

Takeda Shingen’s military strategies later influenced Tokugawa Ieyasu, and his civil engineering projects continued to benefit later generations. “Fūrinkazan” became a lasting cultural icon. His legend is most vividly preserved in modern Yamanashi Prefecture, especially through the annual Shingen-ko Festival, one of Japan’s largest samurai-themed events. Held during the first weekend of April (near Shingen’s lunar birthdate of December 1), the festival attracts tens of thousands to Kofu. The highlight is the Koshu Army Parade, where over 1,000 costumed participants, clad in Sengoku armor and waving “Fūrinkazan” banners, march from Kofu Station to Takeda Shrine, reenacting Shingen’s military might. At night, torches blaze and taiko drums echo, as if the battlefield of Kawanakajima had returned. Visitors can also enjoy Shingen Mochi, a red bean-filled rice cake named after the general, now a must-try local delicacy.

Thanks to its ties with Shingen and the synergy with the Shingen-ko Festival, Lake Kawaguchi has become a historical tourism hotspot. Modern attractions often weave his legacy into the visitor experience.

Recommended Experiences Connecting Shingen to Today’s Lake Kawaguchi:

1. Takeda Shrine & Oishi Park Day Trip

   • Visit Takeda Shrine in Kofu (start point of the festival) in the morning to view Shingen relics and war fans. After experiencing the Shingen-ko Festival, head to Oishi Park in the afternoon for reflections of Mt. Fuji and autumn foliage, where Shingen is said to have trained troops. Sightseeing buses conveniently connect both sites. Don’t miss the chance to sample Shingen Mochi—a taste of the Sengoku spirit.

2. Fujimidai & Kawaguchiko Museum of Art Half-Day Tour

   • In the morning, ascend Fujimidai (Narusawa Village, approx. coordinates 35.4833°N, 138.6833°E) to take in panoramic views of the lake and mountains, evoking Shingen’s watchful gaze. Travel time is 15–20 minutes by car. In the afternoon, explore the Kawaguchiko Museum of Art to appreciate Mt. Fuji-inspired works and connect with Shingen’s love for beauty.

3. Kawaguchiko Ohashi Night Walk & Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway

   • Stroll along Kawaguchiko Ohashi Bridge at dusk, with reflections of city lights on the lake evoking Shingen’s contemplations on war. The next day, ride the Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway (formerly the Kachi Kachi Ropeway, located on the lake’s eastern shore) up to Tenjōzan, rising to 1,075 meters in about 3 minutes. The viewpoint offers a sweeping view of Mt. Fuji and Lake Kawaguchi—echoing Shingen’s lofty ambitions. The observation deck shop sells Shingen-ko Festival-themed souvenirs, letting visitors take home a piece of the legend.

From the vibrant spectacle of the Shingen-ko Festival to the breathtaking vistas atop the Panoramic Ropeway, Takeda Shingen’s legacy lives on around Lake Kawaguchi. As you walk along its shores, you might just hear the whisper of the Tiger of Kai, still watching over this land.